Moji Shorts & In-Seam Pocket Tutorial

I don't know about you, but I practically live in shorts at home.  It's so hot lately and shorts are so practical.  I've converted the Moji Pants by Seamwork to a shorts and swapped for an in-seam pocket instead of a patch pocket.   This was a quick and easy make.  It's a happy moment when you find leftover fabrics that play together so well.

Following is a step by step tutorial on how I do my in-seam pockets.  Of course there might be other better ways but this is how I do it.

Start with 4 pcs of pockets all cut and serge or zig-zag around the curvy edges of all the pieces

I get dyslexic sometimes so I have to lay it out carefully.  Lay it with right sides facing up

Turn the pocket to the side seam, right sides together and pin.  Ensure that the pocket is placed at the same distance from the waist for all 4 pockets.

Sew the pocket to the side seam using a 3/8" seam allowance, back stitch both the beginning and end.

 Serge or zig-zag the whole side seam

Press the pocket piece back out.  Repeat all the steps above for all 4 sides of the shorts.

Now place the pocket attached shorts pieces right side together ensuring the pockets and waist line matches.

Sew the side seam from the waist to the top of the pocket opening a 5/8" seam allowance, back-stitch at both ends.  Mark a point with chalk 5.5" - 6", below this backstitched point.  This will be the pocket opening and will not be stitched.  Then stitch again from the top of pocket bag, around the curve of the pocket bag and back onto the side seams.  Leave your needle in the down position, pivot at the mark that you made earlier and continue stitching the bottom portion of the pocket and side seam at 5/8" seam allowance.  End with a back stitch.  Repeat this for the other side of your shorts.

Press the seams and pocket bag to the front.  Sew your waistband as directed in the pattern and ensure that the top portion of the pocket is caught within the waistband stitching.

Turn your shorts right side out and press your pockets and side seams.  You will notice a 1/4" overhang of the front side of the seam.  This will give a nice flush and avoid any peekaboo of the pocket fabric if you are using a different fabric from the main.  That's it and you now have some pretty neat in-seam pockets!

If you have any questions please to do hesitate to leave me a comment.  

I will be conducting the Moji Pants class at Yee Button on 20th February 2016 (Saturday).  For more info please click my Facebook Event Moji.
 

Children's Clothing

Now how cute is that?!  And their so tiny too.  I am making some shop samples to be displayed at Yee Button.  I have been working behind the scenes on developing a course of children's clothing classes.  It's been lots of work and very exciting at the same time. Sewing bias binding around the itty-bitty armhole was rather fiddly.  But as always the end result is just a joy.

The class will cover pattern drafting and sewing the garment.  Sometimes a child is thin but tall, sometimes the little one has a tummy :)  Hence with learning how to draft your own patterns it frees you from relying on designers' patterns and make the necessary adjustments to fit the particular child's measurements.    Pattern drafting is not rocket science.  All steps will be broken into small digestible chunks.  The skills you learn in drafting and sewing will be applicable to adult garments.  The concept is the same.  You're just working on a smaller scale :) 

With the sewing of these basic dresses under your belt ... think embellishments, think variations or hacks.  So many options to mix and match. 

In the course of studying children's garments, I found that children's clothes can cost as much or higher than adults.  Can't wrap my mind around that.  Also found the workmanship wanting.  Sorry, I am a little OCD in that department.  The designs were 'crowded' ... a case of more is too much.  With the economy the way it is, taking up sewing makes a lot of sense.  Because garment sewing is still a human labour intensive process you might one to get onboard the ethics train of sewing your own garments instead of  supporting mega companies employing workers in slave like conditions.  I am sure you are aware of these global issues.

Because children grow so fast,  you can sew some everyday clothes with reasonably priced ranged cotton fabrics.  Keep a lookout for sales.  The good thing is the little garments don't need much fabric!  Save the better cotton fabrics for special occasions.

Also in my children's clothing classes pipeline are T-Shirts and dresses in knit fabrics, shorts / pants for both boys and girls and special occasion dresses for the little women in our lives.

Some of the fabrics that I will be working on for more children's clothing.  Play with contrast colours, knits ... my head is exploding with ideas!  The sewing classes will be labeled for Advanced Beginners.  If you are interested in sewing children's clothes and have not used the sewing machine before, then please consider signing up for beginner classes prior.  My confirmed classes can be found here.   Please check back for these children's clothing classes as their scheduled to start in March 2016 ... I better get sewing! :)

Let's Akita!

The Akita top pattern by Seamwork is a one piece pattern.  Something out of the ordinary.  It's an easy sew with stable fabrics such as cotton or linen but definitely more tedious when sewing with georgette chiffon.  It's part of my practice fabrics that I'd like to conquer this year.  I'm getting the hang of it ... slowly but surely.  I really like the turquoise / teal colours of the fabric and it's semi sheer quality.

The neckline is finished with satin bias binding

Bust darts for shaping

Side slits

It has some detailing as in bust darts for some shaping at the front bodice and side slits to accommodate the hips.   The neckline is finished with satin bias binding.   Side seams were serged and pressed open, while the hem has a clean double fold finish.  These details are great for stretching the skills of a new garment sewer.

I stay stitched the neckline to prevent it from distorting.  I thought this store bought blue satin bias binding blended with the fabric colour nicely.

The important consideration with this pattern is the fabric must be non directional for eg. a floral design with the flowers growing upwards.  With the Akita top pattern the flowers will end up  growing downwards on the back side.  However that can be easily rectified by incorporating a shoulder seam if need be.

I will be conducting a sewing class on how to sew the Akita top on 23rd January 2016 (Saturday) at Yee Button.  For more info please click my Facebook Event Akita.