Burda - 7136 Shirt

Pattern:  Burda - 7136 (View A)
Size: 40 for a loose fit
Fabric: 1.6M 60" Linen (Harisons)
Details:

• Added 2 more pleats for the cuff to make the cuff circumference smaller
• Reduce the width of the collar by 5/8"
• Re-drafted the pocket into a pleated pocket with flap
• Bias binding hemming

Burda - 7136

Pattern:  Burda - 7136 (View A)
Size: 40 for a loose fit
Fabric: 2.5M 45" Local Cotton (Osman)
Details:

• Increased length by 3"
• Modified the sleeve into a 3/4 sleeve with a wide slit cuff

Burda - Jakob

Pattern:  Burda - Jakob
Size: 48
Fabric: 2.3M 60" Imported Cotton (Harisons)
Details:

• Matched the plaids for the side seams, yoke to front pieces, back to yoke and collar to yoke.  Even the sleeve seams matched.
• The horizontal stripes are matching at the front
• But I think I still need work figuring out the centre front plakets.  I've read that they have to be mirror image but I think I'm missing something.
• Pocket is cut on the bias.
• All pieces are cut on unfolded fabric for accuracy in aligning the plaids.
• The shirt length is extended because the intended wearer is tall and skinny.

Grainline - Archer

Pattern: Grainline - Archer
Size: 12
Fabric: 2.2M 45" Cotton Lawn (Harisons)
Cost: RM15.00 / M

• Had to add another pleat at the sleeve cuff because my wrists are small, also I shortened the cuff length
•  Used my go to bias binding hem treatment

When interfacing the cuff, the interface is about 1/4" over the cuff fold to ensure a nice crisp fold

I draw a sewing line when closing the cuff sides, just to be sure everything is parallel

Saddle stitches for the cuff with Perle No. 12

Close up of the hidden button placket detail

Saddle stitching again across the yoke

Hemming with bias bind and then hand stitching it down

Grainline - Archer (WIP)

Pattern: Grainline - Archer
Size: 12
Fabric: 2.2M 45" Cotton Lawn (Harisons)
Cost: RM15.00 / M

•  I was having a tough time placing all the pieces I needed on the amount of fabric I had, next time (yes, they'll be a next time) I'll get 2.5M instead.
• I don't follow the suggested cutting layout anymore, I just do my thing
• I've added my 'signature' saddle stitching on the collar, back yoke and pockets.  After I finish my cuffs I'll add some stitching on that too.
• I've changed the button placket to a hidden one, I've been meaning to try this design and it's quite simple after all
• For the first time I tried the continuous sleeve placket and it was easy to do and great for fabrics that does not have much body

Grainline - Archer

Pattern: Grainline - Archer
Size: 12
Fabric: 2M 60" Cotton / Linen blend
Cost: RM12.00 / M

Burda - Jakob

Pattern:  Burda - Jakob
Size: 52
Fabric: 2M 60" Imported
Cotton (Fah Num / Harisons)

Burda - Jakob

Pattern:  Burda - Jakob
Size: 52
Fabric: 2M 60" Local Cotton
Details: Pocket is cut on the bias
Notes: Wearable muslin for dad

Burda - 7136

Pattern:  Burda - 7136 (View A)
Size: 40
Fabric: 2.5M 45" Local Cotton (Nagoya)
Details:

• Top stitching was hand stitched with Perle No. 8
• Added a pleat at the centre back 

Burda - Jakob

Pattern:  Burda - Jakob
Size: 46
Fabric: 2M 45" Local Cotton (Nagoya)
Details: Pocket is cut on the bias
Notes: Wearable muslin for Stephan R

 

Burda - 7136

Pattern:  Burda - 7136 (View C)
Size: 40
Fabric: 2.5M 45" Chambray Japanese Cotton (Fah Num)
Details:

• Pleated bib centre front
• French cuffs