Dolman Sleeved Top

Rubbed off the pattern from an existing garment. Because it was essentially two pieces it was a fairly easy pattern to draft. The construction was a breeze except for the exposed zipper closure. 

I used a different method from the skirt exposed zipper closure I completed recently. Although the method for exposed zipper for the top is slightly trickier but it provides a neater finish in my opinion.

Basted the facing onto the top before hand stitching

I used a facing instead of bias binding and there's nothing more annoying then the facing flipping out as you wear it, so I stitched the facing down with tiny catch stitches.

Sleeve band detail

Reduced the seam allowance width to accommodate the curve of the dolman sleeve

The denim tencel fabric was lovely to work with. It's soft with a slightly heavy hand.  Needed only 1M of 60" width fabric.  Fabric is from Spotlight during their recent sales.

Study in Striped Knits

Coco Chanel (pic credit)

Knit striped shirts are really in a class of it's own. It's such a classic. It has stood the test of time and have become quite iconic when it comes to casual wear.  The cross over of the striped shirt aka Breton from utilitarian wear to fashion, from men to women's wear is attributed to Coco Chanel.

Jean Paul Gaultier (pic credit)

However, in recent modern times Jean Paul Gaultier has been associated with popularising this nautical casual white and blue striped shirt.  The Breton shirt is so ingrained in French society that it was one of the official garment for the French Navy.  There were specific attentions to details.  A Breton is 3/4 sleeve length and has 21 stripes to denote as many victories of Napoleon Bonaparte.  So much history.  Read more in WikiFashion.

And here's my humble interpretation.  Not to specifications of course.  Maybe one day I will endeavour to research even more and come up with a Breton that's historically correct.

I've wanted to sew this bateau neckline version for some time.  I saw a similar shirt at a store around Christmas time last year.  So I studied how it was constructed and it wasn't too difficult.  That's the good thing about sewing our own garments, we can replicate most designer looks or style lines without robbing a bank!  Not to say the top I saw was very pricey, it was more 'hey ... I can do that!'

This is my OCD playing up! LOL!!  I took insurance by pinning every stripe so as to match up the side seams.

And of course the result ALWAYS justifies the extra work put in :)

I find myself gravitating to stripes lately what with the pink Breton in my previous post over a week ago.  I've also bought some shirts from the store.  I know ... I broke the cardinal sewers' rule!  I assure you they were pretty reasonably priced and I've classified them under R&D.  All in the name of improving my sewing and learning certain details and style lines.  My threshold of workmanship and quality is very low with these store bought items as evident in this raglan sleeved shirt below :p

Polyester Chiffon: The fabric from hell!

Onward my sewing journey, I am challenging myself to sew with non-behaving fabrics.  Notably chiffon, silk and satin.  I will always love cotton, linen and their blends. I've conquered knits, really there's nothing to it.  It's all in the mind.  But chiffon is REALLY a pain!  You have to have the patience of Mother Theresa.

Mid way, I felt like throwing the whole top away and call it quits.  But I wanted to show the fabric who's boss.  I had visions of a breezy sleeveless top, not so sheer, a check on my modesty.  The print and colour of this fabric is perfect for my skin tone.  It has a border print and is 60" wide.  So 1M is all you need and for RM5/M (Spotlight sale) it was a no brainer.  In fact many other chiffon pieces came back with me that day.  I figured that's an excellent price point to hone my chiffon sewing skills.

This sleeveless top is a a free pattern by Colette called Sorbetto.   I've made many tops from this pattern and all in cotton and linen, never in chiffon.  After many tribulations and plenty of perseverance, I now love the flowy silhouette and it looks quite slimming too.

Iron the fabric allowance towards the bias binding

Iron again and ensure that the bias binding is  not visible,  this is called favouring

The neckline and armhole are then top stitched

French seam treatment for the side seams

The walking foot is the workhorse of sewing with chiffon and even knits.  It helps immensely in ensuring the top and bottom fabrics move in tandem.  Another important notion is to use a fine sewing needle i.e. 70/09.  An 80/11 will just make large holes into the chiffon fabric.  Most importantly you'll need to have truckloads of patience, you'll get there ... eventually.