Wednesday, 21 May 2014

Self drafted - Pants

Pattern: Self drafted pants
Fabric: 1.6M 60" 2-way stretch spandex fabric (Harisons)

  • Used a tried and tested straight cut drafted pattern and re-designed for a slim fit
  • Used a cotton / linen blend fabric for the waistband facing and pockets
  • Did Hong Kong seams for the inseam and the outseam with store bought satin bias binding

Since this fabric has spandex and in order not to let the waistband get out of shape over time, it is advisable to use a non-stretch fabric as a facing

Hong Kong seams and pockets were French seamed!  This pants is getting an international treatment!

Thursday, 15 May 2014

Dress Slip - Self Drafted

Pattern: Self drafted
Fabric: 1M 100" Cotton (Nagoya)
  • Did a rub-off from an existing garment
  • Increased the width of the shoulder straps
  • Used a facing instead of bias binding

Used the rub off method
Did not stitch or understitched the neckline because it needs to be fitted first.  Want to add some machine embroidery along the neckline

Hand stitched the facing down with catch stitch

Sunday, 11 May 2014

Sleeveless Top - Self drafted

Pattern: Self drafted
Fabric: 1M 60" Linen (Osman)
Lining: 1.5M 45" Satin polyester (Osman)

  • Top is fully lined
  • Installed an invisible zip and hook & eye
  • Did a rub-off from and existing garment

Rub-off in progress
Hand stitched bias binding hem

Neck line stitching in progress
Shoulder lining detail

Lining hand stitched to zipper tape

Monday, 5 May 2014

Colette - Laurel

Pattern: Colette - Laurel
Size: 0
Fabric: 1.25M 60" Linen (Harisons)
Underlining: 2.5M 45" Cotton Lawn (Harisons)

  • Bias binding is used as a facing of the neck line and armholes
  • Used bias binding to hem the blouse attached with catch stitch
  • Installed an invisible zip
  • Modified front and back necklines
  • Modified the size lines accordingly for the waist and hips
  • Added fish-eye darts to the front
  • Fully underlined

Still need to get the hook & eye on!

Saturday, 3 May 2014

New Look - 6356

Pattern: New Look - 6356 (View D)
Size: 18
Fabric: 1.75M 45" Lawn Cotton (Harisons)

  • Barely enough fabric for the top.
  • Did a full bust adjustment
  • Lengthened the top by 2" 
  • Installed an invisible zipper and hook and eye
  • This is a semi-fitted garment with side slits and the waist has been intentionally taken in to 38" including ease.

My favourite hem treatment with bias binding

Somehow most instructions do not say to stitch the facing down but I prefer to do that so that it's not fiddly.  Used catch stitch so that it can have some flexibility

The bust darts are ironed upwards so as to minimise a full bust