Shirt Dress - Custom

Pattern: Self drafted
Size:  As per sample
Details:

• Used the sample to draft the pattern
• Made the requested adjustments 

Back View

With the front faux sleeve and large front pockets untied

The original sleeveless shirt dress

Kate's Dress

Pattern: Self drafted
Fabric: 1.5M 60" Linen (Osman)
Fabric: 2.5M 45" Lawn Cotton Lining (Harisons)
Details:

• Drafted from studying Kate Middleton's yellow dress
• Also tweaked on the muslin fitting before cutting the fabric
• Fully lined
• Seams are stitched and then pinked.

 

Muslin for fitting

All ready to sew

Fully lined

Inside the unlined garment

Thread chain or known as French tack to avoid the lining riding up.  Note the pinked seams

The lining at the arm hole is turned and hand stitched to envelope the armscye seam.  Darts for the lining are folded and invisible zip is applied

Bias binding hemming for the sleeves and hem

Colette - Hawthorn

Pattern: Colette - Hawthorn
Size: 12
Version: 3
Fabric: 3.4M 45" Lawn Cotton (Harisons)
Lining: 2M 45" Spun Polyester (Harisons)
Details:

• Used store bought bias binding for the sleeves armhole
• Used my favourite bias binding method for the hem, stitches catching only the underlining
• Added in-seam pockets to the skirt
• The facing was hand stitched down with catch stitch.  Can't stand the facing flapping around! Also prefer the raw edges enclosed. 
• Added snaps at critical areas
• Added a button at the back of a button for the skirt section since they'll be some stress on the button when sitting 
• Skirt lining is sewn together with the fashion fabric as an underlining
• The skirt is a half full skirt and cut on the bias

Had to use white cotton for the pockets since the lining fabric was too thin

Shift Dress - Completed

Pattern: Self-drafted
Fabric: Linen (Harisons)
Underlining: Spun Voile (Harisons)

Details:

• Used the underlining method for lining
• Used store bought bias binding as facing for the neckline and arm hole.  Machine stitched from the front, hand stitched down from the back through all layers as this will ensure the lining do not creep up
• Also used bias binding to hem the dress and hand stitched down with catch stitch to the underlining fabric only as it's a more 'flexible' stitch
• Installed the invisible zipper and a hook and eye
• The hand of the underlining was on the stiff side instead of flowy

Shift Dress

Pattern: Self-drafted

Using the reverse engineering method of lifting the pattern from an existing garment to flat pattern.  A method thought by Kenneth King.

Colette - Laurel (V.4)

Pattern: Colette - Laurel (V.4)
Size: 12
Fabric: 1.8M 45" Cotton (Harisons)

• Used store bought cotton bias binding for the neckline and sleeve hem.  Machine stitched on the front and hand stitched from the back
• Seams were finished open with the overlock stitch on the sewing machine
• Hem folded a 1/2" twice over and hand stitched
• Added an invisible zip on the side seam for ease in wearing

Side seam invisible zip

Bias binding

Colette - Laurel (V.4)

Pattern: Colette - Laurel (V.4)
Size: 0
Fabric: 1.6M 45" Cotton (Harisons)

• Had to cut a centre back because the fabric had some sticky patches along the centre fold
• Also because of the fabric defect went for the sleeveless style
• Used store bought cotton bias binding for the armhole and neckline.  Machine stitched on the front and hand stitched from the back
• Seams were finished open with the overlock stitch on the sewing machine
• Hem folded a 1/2" twice over and hand stitched
• Added an invisible zip on the side seam for ease in wearing

Colette - Hawthorn (WIP)

Pattern: Colette
Size: 12
Version: 3
Fabric: Calico as toile
Details:

• Thread trace / stay stitched the necklines and armholes by 1/4", this will prevent any untoward stretching
• There will be a facing around the neckline and centre fronts
• Only the bodice is required for fit as the skirt is a semi-circle and the hip measurements are not important

Colette - Hawthorn (WIP)

Pattern: Colette
Size: 12
Fabric: Calico as toile
Details:

• Used 1.1M of calico for the bodice pieces
• Lengthened the bodice by 1"
• Raised the front dart apex by 1"