Monday, 20 October 2014

Shirt Dress - Custom

Pattern: Self drafted
Size:  As per sample

  • Used the sample to draft the pattern
  • Made the requested adjustments 

Back View

With the front faux sleeve and large front pockets untied

The original sleeveless shirt dress

Thursday, 16 October 2014

Alabama Chanin Basic Top

Another basic T-Shirt completed.  This time with negative reverse applique and bugle beads running stitch.  Love the shimmer of the bugle beads.  Their 8mm Apple / Toho beads. Stitched with 2 strands of red Coats Dual Duty Plus.  Template Anna's Garden.

The neckline is stitched with Cretan stitch.  Cut this T-shirt from a larger sized one.

Love how the applique fabric naturally roll after washing

Saturday, 11 October 2014

Alabama Chanin Inspired Garments

I've been thinking a lot about garments made in the Alabama Chanin method.  The simplicity and yet the amount of hand stitching that goes into each garment is really astounding.  There are so many variations of these simple hand stitching and each has a different outcome.

I have made 3 garments prior to this fitted top.  They were 2 basics i.e. not embellished and 1 lightly embellished. It's advisable to sew up a basic garment to check on fit and any alterations that you may have before spending many hours embellishing and finding the garment ill fitting.

This is my completed fitted top of which I have used the negative reverse applique method.  Running stitches with visible knots.  The template is Anna's Garden.  This top is sans stenciling.  What I did was copy the design with a water soluble pen and then stitched 1/8" within that line.  The neckline and arm holes were bound with herringbone stitch.  I should also mention that I only embellished the front.

The wrong side

The shoulder seams were reinforced with a strip of twill tape as how it's done in regular t-shirts

Texture of the front
I'm now currently working on another garment.  I've cut this T-shirt some time back.  I bought an XL T-Shirt from The Reject Shop and cut it up to make it smaller and re-stitched it by hand.  You can just about see the size printed on the back neckline.  It'll be covered with binding once I get to it.  I will add on some embellishments with maybe a single repeat as you see in the book's left most diagram.  Also I intend to add some chopped / bugle beads.

As for the thread, I am using Coats Dual Duty Plus (297M) compared to AC's recommended Button Craft thread.  Firstly I cannot get them here locally and I get more bang for the buck with the former.  And it works just as well.

Thursday, 25 September 2014

Scout Woven Tee - Madewell Hack

Pattern: Grainline - Scout Woven Tee
Size: 12
Fabric: 1yd 60" Robert Kaufman Denim (Popular Fabric)
Cost: RM43.00 / yd

  • Used store bought gingham bias binding
  • Seams are faux felt seams throughout
  • Saddle stitching around the neckline and sleeve hems with Perle No.8 in red

Thursday, 18 September 2014

Kate's Dress

Pattern: Self drafted
Fabric: 1.5M 60" Linen (Osman)
Fabric: 2.5M 45" Lawn Cotton Lining (Harisons)
  • Drafted from studying Kate Middleton's yellow dress
  • Also tweaked on the muslin fitting before cutting the fabric
  • Fully lined
  • Seams are stitched and then pinked.
Muslin for fitting

All ready to sew

Fully lined

Inside the unlined garment

Thread chain or known as French tack to avoid the lining riding up.  Note the pinked seams
The lining at the arm hole is turned and hand stitched to envelope the armscye seam.  Darts for the lining are folded and invisible zip is applied

Bias binding hemming for the sleeves and hem

Saturday, 6 September 2014

Dress Slip

Pattern: Self drafted
Fabric: 2M 45" Lawn Cotton (Harisons)

  • Used an existing drafted pattern
  • Used a facing instead of bias binding
  • Machine embroidery around the neckline
  • French seamed side seam.
  • 1/2" double turn machined hem

Sunday, 31 August 2014

Burda - 7136 Shirt

Pattern:  Burda - 7136 (View A)
Size: 40 for a loose fit
Fabric: 1.6M 60" Linen (Harisons)
  • Added 2 more pleats for the cuff to make the cuff circumference smaller
  • Reduce the width of the collar by 5/8"
  • Re-drafted the pocket into a pleated pocket with flap
  • Bias binding hemming

Wednesday, 23 July 2014

Burda - 7136

Pattern:  Burda - 7136 (View A)
Size: 40 for a loose fit
Fabric: 2.5M 45" Local Cotton (Osman)
  • Increased length by 3"
  • Modified the sleeve into a 3/4 sleeve with a wide slit cuff

Friday, 11 July 2014

Todler's Dress / Pinafore

Pattern: Self-drafted
Fabric: 1.5M 45" American Cotton (Popular Fabric)

  • Bias binding is used as a facing for the armhole
  • Double layered yoke
  • Fussy cut yoke and pocket

Wednesday, 9 July 2014

Colette - Laurel

Pattern: Colette - Laurel
Fabric: 2M 45" Cotton (Osman)

  • Bias binding is used as a binding for the neck line and key hole
  • Double folded 1/2" machine stitched hem
  • Bell sleeves

Thursday, 19 June 2014

Burda - Empire Waist Dress

Pattern: Burda - Empire Waist Dress
Size: 42
Fabric: 3.5M 45" Cotton (Harisons)

  • Bias binding is used as a facing of the neck line
  • Used bias binding to hem the blouse
  • Installed an invisible zip on the side
  • Corded bias binding around the neckline and faux collar
  • Parallel stitching detail on the interfaced collar
  • Vanity patch with lace detail is detachable, attached with snap buttons
  • 3 pearl shank non functioning buttons on vanity patch
  • Rushing done with elastic thread on the capped sleeves
  • Visible armscye is bias binded for a clean finish