Shirt Dress - Custom

Pattern: Self drafted
Size:  As per sample
Details:

• Used the sample to draft the pattern
• Made the requested adjustments 

Back View

With the front faux sleeve and large front pockets untied

The original sleeveless shirt dress

Kate's Dress

Pattern: Self drafted
Fabric: 1.5M 60" Linen (Osman)
Fabric: 2.5M 45" Lawn Cotton Lining (Harisons)
Details:

• Drafted from studying Kate Middleton's yellow dress
• Also tweaked on the muslin fitting before cutting the fabric
• Fully lined
• Seams are stitched and then pinked.

 

Muslin for fitting

All ready to sew

Fully lined

Inside the unlined garment

Thread chain or known as French tack to avoid the lining riding up.  Note the pinked seams

The lining at the arm hole is turned and hand stitched to envelope the armscye seam.  Darts for the lining are folded and invisible zip is applied

Bias binding hemming for the sleeves and hem

Todler's Dress / Pinafore

Pattern: Self-drafted
Fabric: 1.5M 45" American Cotton (Popular Fabric)
Details:

• Bias binding is used as a facing for the armhole
• Double layered yoke
• Fussy cut yoke and pocket

Burda - Empire Waist Dress

Pattern: Burda - Empire Waist Dress
Size: 42
Fabric: 3.5M 45" Cotton (Harisons)
Details:

• Bias binding is used as a facing of the neck line
• Used bias binding to hem the blouse
• Installed an invisible zip on the side
• Corded bias binding around the neckline and faux collar
• Parallel stitching detail on the interfaced collar
• Vanity patch with lace detail is detachable, attached with snap buttons
• 3 pearl shank non functioning buttons on vanity patch
• Rushing done with elastic thread on the capped sleeves
• Visible armscye is bias binded for a clean finish

Colette - Laurel

Pattern: Colette - Laurel
Size: 0
Fabric: 1.25M 60" Linen (Harisons)
Underlining: 2.5M 45" Cotton Lawn (Harisons)
Details:

• Bias binding is used as a facing of the neck line
• Used bias binding to hem the blouse
• Installed an invisible zip
• Lowered front neckline
• Modified the size lines accordingly for the hips
• Modified sleeve length to short sleeves
• Fully underlined 

Colette - Laurel

Pattern: Colette - Laurel
Size: 0
Fabric: 1.25M 60" Linen (Harisons)
Underlining: 2.5M 45" Cotton Lawn (Harisons)
Details:

• Bias binding is used as a facing of the neck line and armholes
• Used bias binding to hem the blouse attached with catch stitch
• Installed an invisible zip
• Modified front and back necklines
• Modified the size lines accordingly for the waist and hips
• Added fish-eye darts to the front
• Fully underlined

Still need to get the hook & eye on!

Colette - Hawthorn

Pattern: Colette - Hawthorn
Size: 12
Version: 3
Fabric: 3.4M 45" Lawn Cotton (Harisons)
Lining: 2M 45" Spun Polyester (Harisons)
Details:

• Used store bought bias binding for the sleeves armhole
• Used my favourite bias binding method for the hem, stitches catching only the underlining
• Added in-seam pockets to the skirt
• The facing was hand stitched down with catch stitch.  Can't stand the facing flapping around! Also prefer the raw edges enclosed. 
• Added snaps at critical areas
• Added a button at the back of a button for the skirt section since they'll be some stress on the button when sitting 
• Skirt lining is sewn together with the fashion fabric as an underlining
• The skirt is a half full skirt and cut on the bias

Had to use white cotton for the pockets since the lining fabric was too thin

Shift Dress - Completed

Pattern: Self-drafted
Fabric: Linen (Harisons)
Underlining: Spun Voile (Harisons)

Details:

• Used the underlining method for lining
• Used store bought bias binding as facing for the neckline and arm hole.  Machine stitched from the front, hand stitched down from the back through all layers as this will ensure the lining do not creep up
• Also used bias binding to hem the dress and hand stitched down with catch stitch to the underlining fabric only as it's a more 'flexible' stitch
• Installed the invisible zipper and a hook and eye
• The hand of the underlining was on the stiff side instead of flowy

Colette - Laurel (Version 3)

Pattern: Colette - Laurel
Size: 12
Fabric: 2.5M 45" Local cotton fabric (Kamdar)
Underlining: 2.25M 45" Satin lining
Details:

• Bias binding is hand stitched to the inside
• Used bias binding to hem the blouse 
• Used the keyhole variation for the centre front
• Added embroidery around the keyhole.  The wrong side has been interfaced.  Used DMC Perle cotton No. 8
• Also I have binded the sleeve edges for some added details and use only 1 layer of fabric.  
• And there's inseam pockets with the same fabric on both sides of the dress.

Notes:  After I cut the keyhole, I realised that I actually do not need a zip at the centre back to slip the dress on! 

Colette - Laurel (Version 2)

Pattern: Colette - Laurel
Size: 12
Fabric: 2.5M 45" Silk  / Polyester blend (Kamdar)
Underlining: 45" Cotton Voile
Details:

• Running stitch all around the neckline with DMC Perle No. 8, sleeve hem and pockets
• Pockets were made with 2 pieces sewn RST and turned out so that there won't be any raw edges inside the pocket
• Pocket flap were made with two pieces and one of them interfaced
• Bias binding were all hand stitched down to the inside.

Reinforcing the zipper area with interfacing

Construction of the pocket flaps

Bias binding hemming by hand