Let's Akita!

The Akita top pattern by Seamwork is a one piece pattern.  Something out of the ordinary.  It's an easy sew with stable fabrics such as cotton or linen but definitely more tedious when sewing with georgette chiffon.  It's part of my practice fabrics that I'd like to conquer this year.  I'm getting the hang of it ... slowly but surely.  I really like the turquoise / teal colours of the fabric and it's semi sheer quality.

The neckline is finished with satin bias binding

Bust darts for shaping

Side slits

It has some detailing as in bust darts for some shaping at the front bodice and side slits to accommodate the hips.   The neckline is finished with satin bias binding.   Side seams were serged and pressed open, while the hem has a clean double fold finish.  These details are great for stretching the skills of a new garment sewer.

I stay stitched the neckline to prevent it from distorting.  I thought this store bought blue satin bias binding blended with the fabric colour nicely.

The important consideration with this pattern is the fabric must be non directional for eg. a floral design with the flowers growing upwards.  With the Akita top pattern the flowers will end up  growing downwards on the back side.  However that can be easily rectified by incorporating a shoulder seam if need be.

I will be conducting a sewing class on how to sew the Akita top on 23rd January 2016 (Saturday) at Yee Button.  For more info please click my Facebook Event Akita.

Polyester Chiffon: The fabric from hell!

Onward my sewing journey, I am challenging myself to sew with non-behaving fabrics.  Notably chiffon, silk and satin.  I will always love cotton, linen and their blends. I've conquered knits, really there's nothing to it.  It's all in the mind.  But chiffon is REALLY a pain!  You have to have the patience of Mother Theresa.

Mid way, I felt like throwing the whole top away and call it quits.  But I wanted to show the fabric who's boss.  I had visions of a breezy sleeveless top, not so sheer, a check on my modesty.  The print and colour of this fabric is perfect for my skin tone.  It has a border print and is 60" wide.  So 1M is all you need and for RM5/M (Spotlight sale) it was a no brainer.  In fact many other chiffon pieces came back with me that day.  I figured that's an excellent price point to hone my chiffon sewing skills.

This sleeveless top is a a free pattern by Colette called Sorbetto.   I've made many tops from this pattern and all in cotton and linen, never in chiffon.  After many tribulations and plenty of perseverance, I now love the flowy silhouette and it looks quite slimming too.

Iron the fabric allowance towards the bias binding

Iron again and ensure that the bias binding is  not visible,  this is called favouring

The neckline and armhole are then top stitched

French seam treatment for the side seams

The walking foot is the workhorse of sewing with chiffon and even knits.  It helps immensely in ensuring the top and bottom fabrics move in tandem.  Another important notion is to use a fine sewing needle i.e. 70/09.  An 80/11 will just make large holes into the chiffon fabric.  Most importantly you'll need to have truckloads of patience, you'll get there ... eventually.