Let's Akita!

The Akita top pattern by Seamwork is a one piece pattern.  Something out of the ordinary.  It's an easy sew with stable fabrics such as cotton or linen but definitely more tedious when sewing with georgette chiffon.  It's part of my practice fabrics that I'd like to conquer this year.  I'm getting the hang of it ... slowly but surely.  I really like the turquoise / teal colours of the fabric and it's semi sheer quality.

The neckline is finished with satin bias binding

Bust darts for shaping

Side slits

It has some detailing as in bust darts for some shaping at the front bodice and side slits to accommodate the hips.   The neckline is finished with satin bias binding.   Side seams were serged and pressed open, while the hem has a clean double fold finish.  These details are great for stretching the skills of a new garment sewer.

I stay stitched the neckline to prevent it from distorting.  I thought this store bought blue satin bias binding blended with the fabric colour nicely.

The important consideration with this pattern is the fabric must be non directional for eg. a floral design with the flowers growing upwards.  With the Akita top pattern the flowers will end up  growing downwards on the back side.  However that can be easily rectified by incorporating a shoulder seam if need be.

I will be conducting a sewing class on how to sew the Akita top on 23rd January 2016 (Saturday) at Yee Button.  For more info please click my Facebook Event Akita.

Polyester Chiffon: The fabric from hell!

Onward my sewing journey, I am challenging myself to sew with non-behaving fabrics.  Notably chiffon, silk and satin.  I will always love cotton, linen and their blends. I've conquered knits, really there's nothing to it.  It's all in the mind.  But chiffon is REALLY a pain!  You have to have the patience of Mother Theresa.

Mid way, I felt like throwing the whole top away and call it quits.  But I wanted to show the fabric who's boss.  I had visions of a breezy sleeveless top, not so sheer, a check on my modesty.  The print and colour of this fabric is perfect for my skin tone.  It has a border print and is 60" wide.  So 1M is all you need and for RM5/M (Spotlight sale) it was a no brainer.  In fact many other chiffon pieces came back with me that day.  I figured that's an excellent price point to hone my chiffon sewing skills.

This sleeveless top is a a free pattern by Colette called Sorbetto.   I've made many tops from this pattern and all in cotton and linen, never in chiffon.  After many tribulations and plenty of perseverance, I now love the flowy silhouette and it looks quite slimming too.

Iron the fabric allowance towards the bias binding

Iron again and ensure that the bias binding is  not visible,  this is called favouring

The neckline and armhole are then top stitched

French seam treatment for the side seams

The walking foot is the workhorse of sewing with chiffon and even knits.  It helps immensely in ensuring the top and bottom fabrics move in tandem.  Another important notion is to use a fine sewing needle i.e. 70/09.  An 80/11 will just make large holes into the chiffon fabric.  Most importantly you'll need to have truckloads of patience, you'll get there ... eventually.

Re-SEW-lutions 2016!

Embroidery on apron in progress

I know ... it's cliche ... :p


There's so many things that I want to do and even more things that I want to do better.  In my mind the New Year always provides this nice blank sheet, the first page of a book if you will.  What you write on this page will steer the mood and tone of the year ahead.  Sometimes they are only good intentions but what's so wrong about that?! (read my disclaimer).

First up is my grand 2016 My House Tapestry by Tilda project.  Something I've wanted to do since I got the book some years back.  How many years back exactly is not important! ;)  All my fabrics are washed and onward to construction.

The sock that I've knitted thus far.  I think I botched the joining stitches so I am starting over again, but with a shorter leg portion.  That's the beauty of knitting and crochet ... raveling is easy.  A thorough sock guide and pattern by Christine Perry can be found here.

I've agreed to SAL (Stitch-a-Long) with Lillie on an old WIP from 2008.  The Rose Sampler.  I've completed 8 pages, 4 more pages to go.

 
And then there's the HAL (Hex-a-Long) with JW & MW on the Dilly Bag.  I stopped some months back but it will be revived this year.  I am using the Bionic Gear bag that Jackie W gave me to stuff all my hexagons for this project.

I've laid out a piece of chiffon fabric to be cut into a simple sleeveless top.  I'm learning to work with sheer fabrics.  Let's see how it goes.  It's the famous Sorbetto pattern designed and generously provided free by Colette Patterns.

There are a few quilts I want to make this year.  I am looking for some mindless, effortless piecing. First up would be Lori's Log Cabin Variation.  Her helpful cutting instructions can be found here.

Pic from Lori's blog

And then there's just some simple squares, red and white maybe?

Pic from Pinterest

As for the teaching front their some new developments, still at the discussion stage and some new ideas that's percolating in my head.  So overall a busy and productive 2016!

Colette - Laurel

Pattern: Colette - Laurel
Fabric: 2M 45" Cotton (Osman)
Details:

• Bias binding is used as a binding for the neck line and key hole
• Double folded 1/2" machine stitched hem
• Bell sleeves

 

Colette - Laurel

Pattern: Colette - Laurel
Size: 0
Fabric: 1.25M 60" Linen (Harisons)
Underlining: 2.5M 45" Cotton Lawn (Harisons)
Details:

• Bias binding is used as a facing of the neck line
• Used bias binding to hem the blouse
• Installed an invisible zip
• Lowered front neckline
• Modified the size lines accordingly for the hips
• Modified sleeve length to short sleeves
• Fully underlined 

Colette - Laurel

Pattern: Colette - Laurel
Size: 0
Fabric: 1.25M 60" Linen (Harisons)
Underlining: 2.5M 45" Cotton Lawn (Harisons)
Details:

• Bias binding is used as a facing of the neck line and armholes
• Used bias binding to hem the blouse attached with catch stitch
• Installed an invisible zip
• Modified front and back necklines
• Modified the size lines accordingly for the waist and hips
• Added fish-eye darts to the front
• Fully underlined

Still need to get the hook & eye on!

Colette - Hawthorn

Pattern: Colette - Hawthorn
Size: 12
Version: 3
Fabric: 3.4M 45" Lawn Cotton (Harisons)
Lining: 2M 45" Spun Polyester (Harisons)
Details:

• Used store bought bias binding for the sleeves armhole
• Used my favourite bias binding method for the hem, stitches catching only the underlining
• Added in-seam pockets to the skirt
• The facing was hand stitched down with catch stitch.  Can't stand the facing flapping around! Also prefer the raw edges enclosed. 
• Added snaps at critical areas
• Added a button at the back of a button for the skirt section since they'll be some stress on the button when sitting 
• Skirt lining is sewn together with the fashion fabric as an underlining
• The skirt is a half full skirt and cut on the bias

Had to use white cotton for the pockets since the lining fabric was too thin

Colette - Laurel (V.4)

Pattern: Colette - Laurel (V.4)
Size: 12
Fabric: 1.5M 45" Cotton (Harisons)
Price: RM29.90 / M

• Used store bought cotton bias binding for the neckline and armhole.  Machine stitched on the front and hand stitched from the back
• Seams were finished open with the overlock stitch on the sewing machine
• Hem folded a 1/2" and then 3/4" and top machine stitched

Colette - Laurel (V.4)

Pattern: Colette - Laurel (V.4)
Size: 12
Fabric: 1.8M 45" Cotton (Harisons)

• Used store bought cotton bias binding for the neckline and sleeve hem.  Machine stitched on the front and hand stitched from the back
• Seams were finished open with the overlock stitch on the sewing machine
• Hem folded a 1/2" twice over and hand stitched
• Added an invisible zip on the side seam for ease in wearing

Side seam invisible zip

Bias binding

Colette - Laurel (V.4)

Pattern: Colette - Laurel (V.4)
Size: 0
Fabric: 1.6M 45" Cotton (Harisons)

• Had to cut a centre back because the fabric had some sticky patches along the centre fold
• Also because of the fabric defect went for the sleeveless style
• Used store bought cotton bias binding for the armhole and neckline.  Machine stitched on the front and hand stitched from the back
• Seams were finished open with the overlock stitch on the sewing machine
• Hem folded a 1/2" twice over and hand stitched
• Added an invisible zip on the side seam for ease in wearing

Colette - Laurel

Pattern: Colette - Laurel (V.4)
Size: 0
Fabric: 1.6M 45" Cotton (Harisons)
Cost: RM15.00 / M

• Treated the back piece as one when I removed the back seam.  Didn't see the need for it
• Used store bought cotton bias binding for the sleeve hem and neckline.  Machine stitched on the front and hand stitched from the back
• Seams were finished with the overlock stitch on the sewing machine
• Hem folded a 1/4" twice over and machine stitched

Colette - Hawthorn (WIP)

Pattern: Colette
Size: 12
Version: 3
Fabric: Calico as toile
Details:

• Thread trace / stay stitched the necklines and armholes by 1/4", this will prevent any untoward stretching
• There will be a facing around the neckline and centre fronts
• Only the bodice is required for fit as the skirt is a semi-circle and the hip measurements are not important