Sartorial Stitches: 2014

Monday, 20 October 2014

Shirt Dress - Custom

Pattern: Self drafted
Size: As per sample
Details:

Used the sample to draft the pattern
Made the requested adjustments

Back View

With the front faux sleeve and large front pockets untied


The original sleeveless shirt dress

Thursday, 16 October 2014

Another basic T-Shirt completed. This time with negative reverse applique and bugle beads running stitch. Love the shimmer of the bugle beads. Their 8mm Apple / Toho beads. Stitched with 2 strands of red Coats Dual Duty Plus. Template Anna's Garden.

The neckline is stitched with Cretan stitch. Cut this T-shirt from a larger sized one.

Love how the applique fabric naturally roll after washing

Saturday, 11 October 2014

Alabama Chanin Inspired Garments

I've been thinking a lot about garments made in the Alabama Chanin method. The simplicity and yet the amount of hand stitching that goes into each garment is really astounding. There are so many variations of these simple hand stitching and each has a different outcome.

I have made 3 garments prior to this fitted top. They were 2 basics i.e. not embellished and 1 lightly embellished. It's advisable to sew up a basic garment to check on fit and any alterations that you may have before spending many hours embellishing and finding the garment ill fitting.

This is my completed fitted top of which I have used the negative reverse applique method. Running stitches with visible knots. The template is Anna's Garden. This top is sans stenciling. What I did was copy the design with a water soluble pen and then stitched 1/8" within that line. The neckline and arm holes were bound with herringbone stitch. I should also mention that I only embellished the front.


The wrong side

The shoulder seams were reinforced with a strip of twill tape as how it's done in regular t-shirts

Texture of the front

I'm now currently working on another garment. I've cut this T-shirt some time back. I bought an XL T-Shirt from The Reject Shop and cut it up to make it smaller and re-stitched it by hand. You can just about see the size printed on the back neckline. It'll be covered with binding once I get to it. I will add on some embellishments with maybe a single repeat as you see in the book's left most diagram. Also I intend to add some chopped / bugle beads.

As for the thread, I am using Coats Dual Duty Plus (297M) compared to AC's recommended Button Craft thread. Firstly I cannot get them here locally and I get more bang for the buck with the former. And it works just as well.