Colette - Hawthorn (WIP)

Pattern: Colette
Size: 12
Version: 3
Fabric: Calico as toile
Details:

• Thread trace / stay stitched the necklines and armholes by 1/4", this will prevent any untoward stretching
• There will be a facing around the neckline and centre fronts
• Only the bodice is required for fit as the skirt is a semi-circle and the hip measurements are not important

Colette - Hawthorn (WIP)

Pattern: Colette
Size: 12
Fabric: Calico as toile
Details:

• Used 1.1M of calico for the bodice pieces
• Lengthened the bodice by 1"
• Raised the front dart apex by 1"

Grainline - Archer

Pattern: Grainline - Archer
Size: 12
Fabric: 2M 60" Cotton / Linen blend
Cost: RM12.00 / M

Burda - Jakob

Pattern:  Burda - Jakob
Size: 52
Fabric: 2M 60" Imported
Cotton (Fah Num / Harisons)

Pants - Own Pattern

Pattern: Rub off from original
Size: N/A
Fabric: 1.7M 60" Fabric with spandex (Harisons)
Cost: RM69 /M

Original pants

Wiksten - Tova

Pattern:  Wiksten - Tova
Size: XL
Fabric: 2M 45" Local Cotton

Burda - Jakob

Pattern:  Burda - Jakob
Size: 52
Fabric: 2M 60" Local Cotton
Details: Pocket is cut on the bias
Notes: Wearable muslin for dad

Burda - Andre Shorts

Pattern: Burda - Andre Shorts
Size: XL
Fabric: 1M of 60" width linen (Kamdar)
Details:

• Added in-seam pockets in white muslin
• Amended pattern so that the sides are cut straight 
• I applied the elastic differently where I sew the waist band while the elastic is in the casing.  I find this is easier than pushing the elastic through after the waistband casing is sewn
• Love working with linen

Grainline - Scout Woven Tee

Pattern: Grainline - Scout Woven Tee
Size: 12
Fabric: 2M 45" Local Polyester (Kamdar)
Cost: RM5.00 / M
Details:

• Used store bought satin bias binding
• Bias binding for neckline
• Seams are French seamed including sleeve seams 
• Garter 3/4 sleeve
• Narrow 1/4" hem
• The fabric was labeled Silk Viscose. I knew it wasn't, not at RM5.00/M!
• I figured since this fabric is quite flowy, it'll benefit more with a narrow hem
• The sleeve is a franken sleeve from Wiksten Tova.  I cut the cuff wrongly :( so I opted for the garter sleeve instead ... easy peasy

 

Used a bodkin to insert the elastic

Burda - Lydia

Pattern: Burda - Lydia
Size: 36
Fabric: 1.25M 60" Polyester Jersey (Kamdar)

Details:

• Altered the neckline to a scoop neck
• Added some gathers at the side seams towards the hem
• 3/4 sleeve 
• Lowered the back neckline by 1/2"

Scout Woven Tee

Pattern: Grainline - Scout Woven Tee
Size: 12
Fabric: 1.7M 45" Local Cotton Voile (Zaira)
Cost: RM9.90 / M
Details:

• Used store bought satin bias binding
• Bias binding for neckline, sleeves and bottom hem turned up twice
• Seams are French seamed including sleeve seams

Andre Shorts

Pattern: Burda - Andre Shorts
Size: XL
Fabric: 1M of 60" width navy blue cotton twill (Yee Buttons) and black denim (Nagoya)
Details:

• Added in-seam pockets in white muslin
• Amended pattern so that the sides are cut straight 
• I applied the elastic differently where I sew the waist band while the elastic is in the casing.  I find this is easier than pushing the elastic through after the waistband casing is sewn
• This 2 pair of shorts was couriered to my Dad and he has reported that it fits him well
• Love working with the cotton twill and I think I need to get me some more for my culottes

The cotton twill was very nice to work with

The black denim bled quite a lot

Scout Woven Tee

Pattern: Grainline - Scout Woven Tee
Size: 12
Fabric: 1M 60" Local Cotton (Zaira)
Cost: RM12.90 / M with 30% discount
Details:

• Used store bought satin bias binding instead of making my own
• Bias binding for neckline, sleeves and bottom hem turned up twice

Grainline - Hemlock Tee

Pattern: Grainline - Hemlock Tee
Size: Free
Fabric: 1.25M 60" Cotton Knit (Gift from Jess W)
Details:

• Used mock serger stitch throughout
• Used twin needle for the collar
• Reduced the length by 2"
• The collar band is a little floppy but hopefully after a wash it will recover
• The length of the sleeves and wrist circumference is just nice but I need to increase the width of the upper arm about 1" in total to make it more roomy
• The hems are left unfinished

Looks a little like Breton shirts only the stripes are narrower.  I took a lot of time making sure the stripes matched at the side and shoulder seams.  It was really testing my patience.

 

Burda - Andre Shorts

Pattern: Burda - Andre Shorts
Size: XL
Fabric: 1M of 60" width linen blend (Gift from Jess W)
Details:

• Side seams are mocked serged and the centre and crotch seams a french seamed
• Added in-seam pockets in a contrasting fabric
• Amended pattern so that the sides are cut straight  

The fabric is lightweight and it drapes well too.  I love using contrasting fabrics for pockets.

Scout Woven Tee

Pattern: Grainline - Scout Woven Tee
Size: 12
Fabric: 1.2M 45" Local Cotton (Zaira)
Cost: RM12.90 / M with 30% discount
Details:

• Used store bought satin bias binding instead of making my own
• Bias binding for the sleeve and bottom hem turned out
• The seams are all french seamed including the armhole 
• Size 12 is good fit for me in this fabric.
• My 3rd Scout Woven Tee, definitely not my last

Hawthorn

Pattern: Colette - Hawthorn
Size: 12
Version: 1
Fabric: 1.6M 60" Cotton/Linen blend (Nagoya)
Cost: RM24.80/M with 20% discount
Details:

• Used store bought bias binding for the sleeves instead of making cuffs
• Used my favourite bias binding method for the hem
• Saddle stitch around the collar and sleeves with Perle No. 8 ecru
• The facing was hand stitched down with catch stitch.  Can't stand the facing flapping around! Also prefer the raw edges enclosed.

 

Hawthorn - WIP

Pattern: Colette - Hawthorn
Size: 12
Version: 1
Fabric: 1.6M 60" Cotton/Linen blend (Nagoya)
Cost: RM24.80/M with 20% discount
Details:

• Used store bought bias binding for the sleeves instead of making cuffs

 I auditioned a lace collar but thought otherwise.  Maybe on white fabric it would not look so contrasting.

 With interfacing I interfaced a rough shape of the fabric before I cut my pattern.  This way I need to only cut the pattern once and don't have to fiddle with the interfacing matching my cut fabric.

 Before sewing the collar on I added my 'signature' saddle stitch all around with Perle No 8.

 Bodice completed with some buttons to check on the effect.

 With the peplum skirt sewn.  What's left is to hem the sleeves, sew on the bias binding for the hem and stitch that and add the buttons. 

Scout Woven Tee

Pattern: Grainline - Scout Woven Tee
Size: 12
Fabric: 1.2M 72" (much leftover) Local Cotton (Nagoya)
Details:

• Used store bought bias binding instead of making my own
• Bias binding for the sleeve and bottom hem
• Hand stitched the bias binding down with saddle stitch around the neckline and sleeve hem using Perle No. 8
• The seams are all french seamed including the armhole 
• Stitched a Hungarian embroidery motif at the centre front.  Free motif Little Berry Burst by Kate & Rose.  I used DMC Perle No. 8.  It's stabilized by a lightweight interface.
• Size 12 is good fit for me in this fabric.  I think fabric choice is an important criteria

I think I need to get more Perle No 8 colours!