Colette - Laurel

Pattern: Colette - Laurel (Version 4)
Size: 12
Fabric: 1.1M of 60" width local linen fabric (Nagoya)
Underlining: 1.5M of 45" width cotton voile
Details:

• Bias binding is hand stitched to the inside as a facing
• Added 1" to the length  
• French seams are used for all seams
• Added embroidery detail

If you find the embroidery motif to be familiar that's because it's a single repeat of the stencil Bloomers by Alabama Chanin.  The good people in AC gave me permission for just this instance to use their stencil for a contest. Because who knows,  I might just win something! So I thought I better get permission prior.  Some positive channeling going on here :)

Colette - Laurel

Pattern: Colette - Laurel (Version 4)
Size: 12
Fabric: 2M of 45" width local cotton fabric (Nagoya)
Details:

• Bias binding is hand stitched to the inside
• Added 1" to the length  
• French seams are used for all seams except the bell sleeve seam
• Added a keyhole at the centre front, shortened it by 1-1/2" 
• Hem is hand stitched, a double fold of first 1/2" and then 3/4"
• The back piece is in one piece and the centre back is reduced by a total of 1/2"

I think I'm developing a fondness to french seam the arm holes.  It can be tricky in the beginning but with practice it'll get easier.  There is a good tutorial here by Grainline.

 

 

Colette - Sorbetto

Pattern: Colette - Sorbetto
Size: 12
Fabric: 1M of 60" width embroidered cotton fabric (Nagoya)
Details:

• Bias binding is hand stitched to the inside
• Used bias binding to hem the blouse 
• Added 1" to the length  
• French seams are used for the side seams

It was rather tricky when cutting the pattern.  I had just enough in width and only used the border for the front piece.  Since this fabric has a scalloped embroidered border I should have taken the diameter of the hem into consideration instead of the length of the garment.

I've always loved these sheer like cotton fabrics and decided not to underline it since it will loose it's soft drape, besides I rather it remains thin for this warm weather.

My haberdashery did not stock my preferred bias binding brand Dolphin in white.  What they had in white was the Carnation brand.  I find the Dolphin brand to have a wider bias binding fold as compared to Carnation.  That way I am able to sew a slightly wider seam to the fabric. Also the Carnation brand was a mix of polyester and cotton instead of all cotton, only 2.5M instead of 3M and the joins were horribly done.  So I settled for light beige Dolphin brand.

Fabric Shopping

I spend most of my time at home and I figured it's about time to plan on sewing some tops and shorts for myself.   It's been quite hot here in KL.  Cotton and linen are my go to fabrics and the most practical in this weather.  I sew mostly everyday casual wear as there is practically no fancy events that I attend apart from the occasional client meeting.

However I do sew some work clothes for my sis and clients which ensures I get a bit of variety of garments to sew.  And there's also plans of sewing some ready-to-wear for sale in the shop.

So I did some garment shopping at Nagoya Jalan TAR this week and I got some cottons.  I did take a quick peek at Harissons but there was no sale this month but the sales lady said that they'll be one in May. I love the Japanese printed cotton that they sell and I think I may succumb and buy some next month.

For sleeveless and short sleeved pullover tops

Jeans fabric for shorts and the rest are for skirts

Their a mix of inexpensive and mid range quality cotton which is clearly reflected in it's price from RM5 to RM20/M.

Colette - Laurel (Version 3)

Pattern: Colette - Laurel
Size: 12
Fabric: 2.5M 45" Local cotton fabric (Kamdar)
Underlining: 2.25M 45" Satin lining
Details:

• Bias binding is hand stitched to the inside
• Used bias binding to hem the blouse 
• Used the keyhole variation for the centre front
• Added embroidery around the keyhole.  The wrong side has been interfaced.  Used DMC Perle cotton No. 8
• Also I have binded the sleeve edges for some added details and use only 1 layer of fabric.  
• And there's inseam pockets with the same fabric on both sides of the dress.

Notes:  After I cut the keyhole, I realised that I actually do not need a zip at the centre back to slip the dress on! 

Colette - Laurel (Version 4)

Pattern: Colette - Laurel
Size: 12
Fabric: 2M 45" Japanese cotton fabric (Fah Num)
Underlining: 1.25M 45" Cotton Voile
Details:

• Bias binding is hand stitched to the outer garment
• Used bias binding to hem the blouse 
• Back is cut as 1 piece 

Notes:  I chickened out of adding the sleeve because I wasn't confident I'd do a good job aligning the plaid lines of the sleeve to the bodice :(

Colette - Laurel (Version 4)

Pattern: Colette - Laurel
Size: 12
Fabric: 1.3M 52" Embroidered cotton fabric (Osman)
Underlining: 1.25M 45" Satin lining
Details:

• Bias binding is hand stitched to the inside
• Used bias binding to hem the blouse 
• Back is cut as 1 piece

Colette - Laurel (Version 2)

Pattern: Colette - Laurel
Size: 12
Fabric: 2.5M 45" Silk  / Polyester blend (Kamdar)
Underlining: 45" Cotton Voile
Details:

• Running stitch all around the neckline with DMC Perle No. 8, sleeve hem and pockets
• Pockets were made with 2 pieces sewn RST and turned out so that there won't be any raw edges inside the pocket
• Pocket flap were made with two pieces and one of them interfaced
• Bias binding were all hand stitched down to the inside.

Reinforcing the zipper area with interfacing

Construction of the pocket flaps

Bias binding hemming by hand