Sartorial Stitches: January 2014

Tuesday, 28 January 2014

Pattern: Colette - Laurel (V.4)
Size: 12
Fabric: 1.5M 45" Cotton (Harisons)
Price: RM29.90 / M

Used store bought cotton bias binding for the neckline and armhole. Machine stitched on the front and hand stitched from the back
Seams were finished open with the overlock stitch on the sewing machine
Hem folded a 1/2" and then 3/4" and top machine stitched

Pattern: Grainline - Scout Woven Tee
Size: 0
Fabric: 1.5M 60" Viscose blend (Nagoya)
Details:

Pattern: Burda - Jakob
Size: 48
Fabric: 2.3M 60" Imported Cotton (Harisons)
Details:

Matched the plaids for the side seams, yoke to front pieces, back to yoke and collar to yoke. Even the sleeve seams matched.
The horizontal stripes are matching at the front
But I think I still need work figuring out the centre front plakets. I've read that they have to be mirror image but I think I'm missing something.
Pocket is cut on the bias.
All pieces are cut on unfolded fabric for accuracy in aligning the plaids.
The shirt length is extended because the intended wearer is tall and skinny.

Pattern: Colette - Laurel (V.4)
Size: 12
Fabric: 1.8M 45" Cotton (Harisons)

Used store bought cotton bias binding for the neckline and sleeve hem. Machine stitched on the front and hand stitched from the back
Seams were finished open with the overlock stitch on the sewing machine
Hem folded a 1/2" twice over and hand stitched
Added an invisible zip on the side seam for ease in wearing

Side seam invisible zip

Bias binding

Pattern: Colette - Laurel (V.4)
Size: 0
Fabric: 1.6M 45" Cotton (Harisons)

Had to cut a centre back because the fabric had some sticky patches along the centre fold
Also because of the fabric defect went for the sleeveless style
Used store bought cotton bias binding for the armhole and neckline. Machine stitched on the front and hand stitched from the back
Seams were finished open with the overlock stitch on the sewing machine
Hem folded a 1/2" twice over and hand stitched
Added an invisible zip on the side seam for ease in wearing

Pattern: Colette - Laurel (V.4)
Size: 0
Fabric: 1.6M 45" Cotton (Harisons)
Cost: RM15.00 / M

Treated the back piece as one when I removed the back seam. Didn't see the need for it
Used store bought cotton bias binding for the sleeve hem and neckline. Machine stitched on the front and hand stitched from the back
Seams were finished with the overlock stitch on the sewing machine
Hem folded a 1/4" twice over and machine stitched

Pattern: Grainline - Archer
Size: 12
Fabric: 2.2M 45" Cotton Lawn (Harisons)
Cost: RM15.00 / M

Had to add another pleat at the sleeve cuff because my wrists are small, also I shortened the cuff length
Used my go to bias binding hem treatment

When interfacing the cuff, the interface is about 1/4" over the cuff fold to ensure a nice crisp fold

I draw a sewing line when closing the cuff sides, just to be sure everything is parallel

Saddle stitches for the cuff with Perle No. 12

Close up of the hidden button placket detail

Saddle stitching again across the yoke

Hemming with bias bind and then hand stitching it down

Pattern: Grainline - Archer
Size: 12
Fabric: 2.2M 45" Cotton Lawn (Harisons)
Cost: RM15.00 / M

I was having a tough time placing all the pieces I needed on the amount of fabric I had, next time (yes, they'll be a next time) I'll get 2.5M instead.
I don't follow the suggested cutting layout anymore, I just do my thing
I've added my 'signature' saddle stitching on the collar, back yoke and pockets. After I finish my cuffs I'll add some stitching on that too.
I've changed the button placket to a hidden one, I've been meaning to try this design and it's quite simple after all
For the first time I tried the continuous sleeve placket and it was easy to do and great for fabrics that does not have much body